Today we know hundreds of varieties and forms of Hibiscus are grown in indoor and garden conditions. This plant is attractive for its flowers of different colors, which can be as simple and terry.
At home, we often grow hibiscus Chinese with charming red double flowers and shiny dark green leaves. If hibiscus provide good conditions, then he quickly develops into a large tree luxuriant.
Care hibiscus
One of the main conditions for good flowering of this plant is a bright room and the lack of direct sunlight. During warmer months, you can safely make your hibiscus to the balcony, fresh air.
The main thing that was a balcony light and protected from drafts.
Rosa chinensis for optimum air temperature is 18-22 degrees. Blossoms in the home, usually in the spring, summer and fall, so at this time he needs regular watering and hoeing the land. In winter, reduce watering.
Feeding hibiscus
Fertilizing should be done hibiscus in the spring and summer about three times a month. Fertilizers can use a weak solution of mineral or organic. Rosanne well responds to spraying, especially in winter, in heated dry area.
The main secret of a luxurious flowering hibiscus:
Temperatures in the range of 15 degrees, at which the land dries more slowly and therefore less need to water the plant. In such circumstances, Rosalie, a period of rest, and it lays the flower buds. In normal city apartments similar conditions were in the autumn, before the onset of the heating season.
Then you need to take a moment and give hibiscus relax, and with the inclusion of heat transfer it in the coldest area of the apartment (even low-light), and once again not be watered until the end of winter. In February, you can watch the growth hibiscus leaves - it testifies to its revival.
Then the flower is transferred to a brighter place and gradually begin watered and fed. If you miss the moment of awakening and transfer hibiscus to light already in bud, you can face the fact that he dropped the first buds and foliage.
Planting Hibiscus
Rosa chinensis prefers loose nutritional augmentation of yield of turf, leaf humus and land in the ratio of 2: 1: 1. It is also possible to add a bit of peat and sand. At the bottom of the pot necessarily satisfied with drainage.
Note hibiscus develops very quickly, so a transplant into a larger pot may be required more than once a year. Adults Rosanna transplanted rare, but every spring in a pot they change the top layer of soil nutrient.
Adult plants tolerate normal pruning, which stimulates lush branching and flowering. To make it better at the end of winter.
For breeding hibiscus at home, you can use the tops of young shoots. Do it best in spring and summer (in August).
What problems can arise when growing hibiscus?
Buds were not disclosed and fall. Possible causes of the problem: a lack of nutrients, low temperature or lack of watering.
Lack of flowering under abundant green mass indicates that the plant is overfed with nitrogen fertilizers, and in winter the temperature was high, and insufficient watering.
Subsidence of the lower leaves and yellow top - indicates chlorosis. The reason - the highest concentration in the water for irrigation and calcium chloride with a shortage of iron and nitrogen. Remember, water is necessary to defend, and if necessary, add to it the iron chelate.
The most common pests hibiscus - aphids, whiteflies, mites. Get rid of them help special preparations. If, after the attacks of pests hibiscus heavily exposed, it should be cut to stimulate further growth of side shoots.
Spathiphyllum female happiness how to care at home
The people are many legends about the plants, they are attributed to various magical properties, healing abilities. One such plant is Spathiphyllum. This flower was found many years ago in the jungle. After some effort Botany could distribute it to many greenhouses.
Spathiphyllum flowers beautiful white flowers. Its bud, resembles a brush covered with a white veil, probably because of its plant and was named female happiness. It is believed that if a woman give a flower, very soon it will have the very feminine happiness. If the house is not the flower grows, women's happiness can not see.
In fact, of course, flowering plant does not depend on the presence of happiness a woman living in the house. Just this flower needs special care. How to care for him at home, you will learn from this article.
Now there are more than 50 species of this plant, we will consider increasing Spathiphyllum at home.
Location and lighting in the room
It is best suited southern Spathiphyllum window. In summer the plant needs shade, again better on the south window, but for the light curtain or tulle. But even in summer it is not necessary to make the plant a balcony or terrace, it can not tolerate drafts. Winter is a superb winter sun.
Temperature at home
The temperature regime is very important for the growth of the flower. It is important to know that Spathiphyllum not tolerate extreme temperatures. The optimum temperature for growth of the flower about 22C.
In the spring and summer, it should not be below 17C. In autumn and winter is not below 15 ° C, at lower temperatures will slow growth. If the temperature drops below 10C, it is likely that the plant will die.
How to pour a woman's happiness
Spathiphyllum should be watered with water defended at least 12 hours, the water should be at room temperature. In spring and summer watering as the soil dries. If the upper layer has dried out, try to land at a depth 2-3santimetra if she's a little wet, can safely be watered.
Water the plant when the top layer is still wet - impossible, it would result in the death of the flower. But do not let the soil dry, the leaves are humbled. The plant is tropical, so loves moisture, it must be sprayed with warm water, especially in homes with central heating.
During flowering can not be allowed to enter the water at the bud during spraying it should cover. Leaflets are periodically cleaned with a damp cloth to dust, so that the plant could breathe. The pan can put a layer of sand or moss, it will help keep needed moisture.
Fertilizing
Fertilizing Spathiphyllum, especially during periods of strong growth it is advisable to do once a week. Feed should be organic and mineral fertilizers, it is advisable to alternate them.
Feed the plants need after a good watering. It is important to choose the correct dose of fertilization, or it can go in harm. In a period of rest, that is, autumn and winter, fertilizing should be reduced to once every 2-3 weeks.
Transplanting flower female happiness
Spathiphyllum transplanted need to once a year. Always at the beginning of the spring, until he came out of the resting stage. Pot choose a little more than the previous one, until the roots do not fill the entire pot, the plant begins to bloom.
The bottom of the pot is required to lay a drainage layer (suitable concrete block, foam, crushed stone or gravel). As the soil is good to use a mixture of equal parts compost, river sand, peat, leaf and turf ground.
For faster habituation to a new pot, the plant can be covered with plastic wrap, remove it 2 times a day for ventilation.
If you properly care for your plant, your woman's happiness will blossom beautifully at home and please the eye.
How to grow a lemon at home, tips on caring for lemon
For many years I grow in my apartment room lemons. The oldest
Plants - Meyer lemon over 25 years. I had to grow from a small twigs, which is ingrained into a bush, then in the village.
In the third year it bloomed and gave the first harvest - a dozen of the fragrant and delicious fruit.
Since then, it took more than twenty years, but the lemon is still pleases me with its stable fruiting, and he did not lose decorative. Especially attractive is the plant in the spring, during flowering and late autumn, in November and December, when ripe lemons in the thick dark green crown look like toys on the Christmas tree - very elegant! Relatives and friends, seeing this beauty, admire and envy, are asked to share saplings of lemon. Yes, and very pleased to present a flourishing lemon.
Propagated by their lemons in two ways: by cuttings and grafting. Cuttings harvested in early spring, cutting plants. For rooting took away neodrevesnevshie twigs with green leaves have formed.
Cuttings shortened to 6-10 cm, leaving the top one or two leaves and drop them into plastic cups with soil (capacity 0, 5 l). Then the cups with cuttings put in mikroparnik lightly pritenyat. After rooting, when the kidneys are touched in growth, seedlings exhibited a bright place, gradually accustoming them to the open air.
Further care is regular watering and timely transplant. For the first time transplanted about a year, when the plant leaves 20-30. Pot size should be 1-1, 5 l
It lemon will grow until flowering, after which it can be transplanted to new dishes.
Flowering lemon Meyer comes two years after the establishment. Plants by this time have the form of a small bush height of 30-50 cm, with 40-60 leaves.
Despite the "young" and rooted graft and lemons are ready to fruit after the first flowering. Leaving 3-4 ovaries on the plant, using the rules of th: one ripening fruit must be at least 15 leaves. Leaves more ovaries should not be, the young plant will be weakened and delayed growth. Needless to pick off all the ovary - it is re-bloom, and also slows down the growth. I normalize the results only the first 2-3 years. And then "trust" the plant itself: it is to lose those extra ovary, if they are many, and add after the re-flowering, if the ovaries are not enough.
Yield indoor lemon depends on the age and conditions (primarily on the light), and can reach several tens of fruits per plant.
For example, my lemon in 4-6-year-old gave a year of about 100-120 fruits - just count them was impossible, and the weight of the crop -8-10 kg. Over the years, the yield has fallen and is now kept at the level of 30-40 fruit. Of course, the rule of thumb: 1 fruit - 15 sheets are no longer valid - there are many shaded leaves that do not participate in the formation of fruit.
Greater efficiency can be achieved by keeping a lemon in the summer on the balcony, loggia or in the open air. Of course, for such movements are only suitable young plants aged 2-4 years, more adults are too heavy and cumbersome. Lemon is very well tolerated change habitats. But some time to adapt it to the new conditions it is still necessary. And at the end of the summer you can expect a great harvest. In addition, your lemon will be healthy, with a compact crown, dark green leaves. Such a plant is easier to transfer the most difficult winter, the leaves lose less and be better prepared for the next flowering.
Of the volume of the soil and its composition also depends on the yield. Young lemon in the early years of growing rapidly, trying to fill all of the allotted space illuminated. During this period, which lasts about 4-5 years, the plant has doubled annually root and leaf mass and, in my opinion, needs to double the annual transplant size container.
After the first transplant of flowering lemon into a container volume of 2-3 liters in a year - 4-6 - liter capacity, for the third year - is 8-10 liters, in the fourth - 16-20 liters.
At this time, a plant reaches its maximum size, covering most of the space allocated to it, and further self limits itself to growth, therefore no longer needs transplants, and 20 L is sufficient for adult content lemon many years.
Annually pour fresh soil to retain its volume.
Lemon is grown commonly in humus, compost made from plant extracts 2-3 years. A bucket of humus add a handful of wood ash, and nothing else. This soil mix contains all the necessary nutrients for the plant, it is light and loose, not compacted with time, which is very important for root respiration.
Dressings do not give. Fertilizers - out of caution so as not to harm the plants. No soil analysis application of mineral fertilizers can be harmful or even deadly to plants, contained in a limited volume of soil.
Fertilizing manure is not considered necessary for reasons of hygiene lemon and avoid unwanted odors. Using crop residues their lemons - fallen flowers, and ovaries. Their pour evenly across the surface of the soil and the leaves are dry compacted by the perimeter of the pot, filling the air gaps. After some time, this mass is converted into a substrate of dark brown color, an excellent mulching material and long-term feeding.
This technology allows me to constantly obtain high yields - 4-5 kg of fruits per plant - with minimum maintenance.
